America’s great salt swap began in the 1980s, when farmers’-market culture and the health-food movement helped American chefs acquaint themselves with specialty ingredients, Bitterman told me: ...

As long as it still tastes okay, if you spot some clumps, just shake or tap the package to break things up—and consider refreshing your salt stock in the near future.

When I was a child, in the 1990s, there was only one kind of salt; we called it “salt.” It came in a blue cylindrical ...